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by Louise Braine – Lodge Manager
Good cat sightings recently – this one was taken by 2 German ladies (Gerda Pfeil and Andrea Lippert) on a game drive – first week of January.
Our alpha male photographed by Dayne in December
A new Pearl Spotted Owl fledgling by Dayne
Action at the Hobatere waterhole in December photographed by Dayne
Our resident rock monitor – Dayne
Juvenile Boomslang photographed by Dayne in the Hobatere garden
Damara Hornbill in our garden - another near endemics in Namibia – photographed by Dayne
One of the near emdemics in Namibia – Madagascar Bee-eater, photographed by Dayne
Steve releasing an Augar Buzzard that he ringed near the lodge.
Peter Gava – Lodge Manager
A jungle without a King is like an abandoned Palace and the throne is just devoid. This is a stead-fast belief in any community that deserves dignity, stability and continuity. The Bwabwata National Park was not an exception a few years back when human pressure had caused many wildlife species to disappear. Truly, the King of the Jungle ‘The African lion’ is among the species that were forced to the margin without doubt. For 10 years the Bwabwata National Park lions have not been very visual except for some calls and a few tracks to mark their presence. This has changed overwhelmingly resulting in frequent sightings of different individuals and prides that have now become a common sight at Susuwe Island Lodge and the famous Horseshoe Bend. The King of the Jungle has finally come to claim back his Throne in full force, all confirmed by the observations that follow.
Kathy Rabkin our recent guest had a feast of lion sightings. Soon after picking her up from Kongola Check Point, we drove into the Park without any inclination on what surprise waited for us ahead. Of course this was Kathy’s first time in Bwabwata and a very rustic Conservation area compared to others she has visited before, and this she loved and confessed repeatedly.
The storm had just passed by and the wet sand made our tracks on the road like a high-way. Soon as we arrive at Old Fort Doppies we picked up fresh tracks of what we all agreed was 4 male lions and the fact that the storm had only passed some 15 minutes back, experience plus instinct told us that the animals were just around. We drove further up the embankment and as we reached up the peak, suddenly two lions walked away into the bushes. The other two had obviously walked ahead of the two we could see. We gave the lions time to settle down so that we could verify the numbers and gender. Four individuals came back to the road in turns but went back into the bushes when we started the vehicle. Suddenly all the lions started calling as a result selling out the presence of the fifth individual who was still behind us. We had to drive back to look for him but he hid and then came onto the road behind us. On our way back there he was, running towards the rest in a gentle trot. Alas! This proved to be the biggest of all the males, with his glistening mane shinning as if oiled from the saloon. He stood and looked back, walked, stopped and looked again before disappearing into the bushes. We stayed with the lions for the next 45 minutes as they walked on the road towards Susuwe Island Lodge. The sun was going down and soon it would be dark, meaning we had to leave and leave our dear friends until the next day. I was happy for Kathy since this was her first lions seen so close in the wild.
Kathy was warmly welcomed at the Lodge whilst she still could not believe how quickly the whole drama unveiled. The lions roared over the whole night while baboons and monkeys responded with highly pitched calls of fear for their lives.
During the following day we had to go on an Afternoon Game Drive. We switched our game-drive to birding, termites and bones of animals although we did not take off the thought about our magnificent male lions. We picked up tracks of a female lion and a cub at Nambwa and I told Kathy that the two will be at Horse-shoe. Yes but not quite right! Just on arrival at Horse-shoe we sighted a sub-adult male and sub-adult female who were ambushing impala but abandoned the mission and ran to the nearest bushes. Kathy had all the luck for the Susuwe Predators and made sure it also crossed a female cheetah who lazily relaxed at a termite mound under a sweet thorn acacia tree.
We came back to horse-shoe for a lovely sunset with the hippos, baboons, kudu, impala and Hadida Ibis. What a wonderful sunset!
On our way back to the lodge we took the back road from Horse-shoe in an attempt to look for leopard but unfortunately we got back to the main drive road without any signs of the elusive cat. As we enter the main drive road, we again picked up fresh tracks of 4 male lions that were heading towards to Horse-shoe having walked on top of our previous tracks. Even though it was getting dark, we were enticed to turn around and follow them. Just 3 minutes after that they were on the road. They stared at the vehicle and then just slowly walked into the bushes. We drove closer and had a full view of all the four. We realized the lions were marking and probably trying to catch up with the pride of females. This is a good indication that our Bwabwata National Park lions at Susuwe Island lodge now have a strengthened gene pool and have discovered this space for ever, ensuring high probability of our guests having a great experience and viewing of them. This will give a complete consortium of Africa’s Big Cats being sighted at Susuwe since leopard and cheetah now feature very well in the area.
We bid Kathy Farewell and she obviously would have wanted to stay longer to share even more of the Susuwe magic. We had to drop her to Kongola Check-Point and drove back with the memories of her and the company she gave us over the past three days, and the lions.
Long live the King of the Jungle of the Bwabwata National Park at Susuwe wild Kingdom!
by Nicci Mitchell – Lodge Manager- 3 February 2010
We were not surprised with the raised eyebrows and sceptical stares upon announcing our intention to head off to work in the Namibian bush. For Dave and I it was a new beginning – not only as newly weds but also in our respective careers and lifestyles. This was our chance to challenge ourselves in a new direction. We had spent all our lives living in the city and had developed a passion for the bush through numerous excursions to various game farms in South Africa. When the opportunity arose for us, it was at the perfect time. Dave had just finished his Articles and I was ready for a new and challenging job away from the ‘big smoke’ and the Joburg traffic.
We arrived at Impalila on the 27th April 2009 filled with expectation. We both had limited to no experience and were immediately challenged upon arrival. We had only a few days of training prior to being left as an autonomous unit in complete control of the lodge whilst its management couple, Heidi and Francois, took their leave. The responsibility was given to and received by both of us with anticipation.
Although we performed well over those weeks… we were met by other challenges coming in all forms and sizes… I think it pertinent therefore to mention that when we first arrived in the Caprivi, although a bush lover, I was still a Sandton girl at heart. Spiders and snakes were mortal enemies. Every night Dave would escort me home as I suspiciously shone my head torch into the bushes to ensure I did not stumble into any hidden hippos, elusive elephants or slithery snakes. Every rustle in the bush would push my heart rate into overdrive. I would stop dead, hold my breath and strain my ears intensely in order to locate the source of the noise.
Initially, I was also extremely concerned about the large gap under the front door to the house we had been given. In my mind the gap was an irresistible invitation to a passing Mamba going about its winter 2009 hibernation routine. Spiders were also rife. I could spot at least 8 visible arachnids in our house at any given time. When spider-hugging Dave wasn’t around I would run around the room with my shoe chasing the little buggers. And these were true, 8 legged, little Olympiads. I can’t say I actually managed to catch one of them – they would always mange to dash into an inaccessible gap or corner leaving me staring at the wall exasperated.
Those few weeks at Impalila flew by quickly and our next challenge was to head off to Ntwala Island Lodge – just a stone throws distance from Impalila. Where Impalila is the luxurious fishing lodge, Ntwala is the lodge every person dreams of being able to stay at one day. Ntwala is luxury at its best. And of course – with the luxury comes high guest expectation and an unquestionable delivery of outstanding service. After a month at Ntwala, Dave and I were handed over control of the lodge. Ntwala’s previous manager had been promoted and we were now to be the managers of this extraordinarily beautiful haven.
Dave and I stayed a blissful four months at Ntwala. The lodge has a unique character made up by the staff spirit and the intense beauty of the location. The buildings are set in and amongst dense forests comprising of predominantly tropical vegetation. As guests arrive at the lodge, most have made the similar comment: “that if you didn’t know better, you could be on a tropical, ocean island” – this is purely due to the flowing rapids, the white, beach sand pathways, the lush palm trees and the sense of complete seclusion.
I am happy to tell you that as time progressed, my snake and bug paranoia dramatically decreased. I am now quite happy to have an arachnid ally, hanging over my head at night, feasting on mosquitoes. I no longer have a nervous break down when walking home at night. I revel in the sound of the bush at night… the frogs, the crickets and the river in the background. Upon returning to Johannesburg for our first leave period, Dave turned and said to me… “Don’t you miss the sounds of the bush at night”? Well yes – I had to agree.
As we enter 2010, our path has somewhat transformed. We have returned to Johannesburg permanently due to unforeseen problems with our work visas. However, reminiscing over the last few months in Namibia, I can’t help but appreciate the unimaginable challenges and learning curves we were faced with. I would not sacrifice the experience we had for anything in the world. The lodge now remains in the capable hands of another couple who have a matched enthusiasm for their roles. We wish them all the best of luck…
By Louise Braine - Lodge Manager | September 2009
Hobatere Lodge is renowned for its fantastic big game sightings and this month has been no exception. Lions attacked and killed a zebra right in front of the main hide, stunning guests with a display of nature’s cruel magnificence, and providing some amazing photo opportunities. The elephant breeding herds are another constant source of wonder and the elephants are happy to oblige the guests by having mud baths in a pool right below the Hobatere swimming pool! For big cat lovers, the night drives have yielded some exciting sightings of lions and cheetahs and for the twitchers, a bird watching walk with Steve is definitely not to be missed, with a likely addition of seven or eight endemic Namibian specials to be added to your list.
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Lions & cubs at the waterhole
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Lioness with cubs at the hide
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Gameviewing at our waterhole
By Heidi Prinsloo – Lodge Manager | September 2009
The game viewing at Impalila Island Lodge has been superlative lately. Guests are regularly being treated to the delightful sight of elephants crossing the river right in front of the lodge and it truly is a wonderful experience to watch them take advantage of the cool water to frolic and play a little bit as well. Guests who have ventured out onto the Chobe River on a River Game Cruise have also been rewarded with the sight of lions on the banks of the Chobe River, as well as a host of other sightings including elephants, crocodiles, hippos and lechwe. Another unforgettable river experience is a romantic beach picnic – A picnic lunch on a sandbank in the upper Zambezi, which gives the sense of being marooned on your own private desert island… Impalila guests were recently overheard declaring that it was the highlight of their stay.
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Picnic lunch on a sandbank in the upper Zambezi
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Elephants crossing the river right in front of the lodge
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Lioness on the banks of the Chobe River
By Ian James Rodney – Guest | August 2009
Jan Erik Vold once said, “If you gave me several million years, there would be nothing that did not grow in beauty if it were surrounded by water”
This speaks true for Ntwala Island Lodge, situated in the heart of the Caprivi, one of the exclusive gems in the Islands in Africa portfolio of lodges. From the hustle and bustle of Johannesburg city streets to sitting on a boat on the soothing waters of the Caprivi in Namibia in under 3 hours. There are spa packages that take longer and still do not offer the level of relaxation achieved by these majestic waters.
Having been collected by a private boat and guide from Kasane Immigration, we were whisked along the meandering Kasai channel until a gap in the reeds gave us a glimpse of the lodge jetty, where we were greeted by warm welcomes, cold cocktails and chilled facecloths. From the jetty, we were led across this cluster of pristine islands on floating walkways and freshly raked white sand paths. Upon arrival at the main complex, which sits on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, sheltered by Ilala palms, we saw breathtaking views of this mighty river along with its many inhabitants including several pods of hippos. It is hard not to feel resentment towards the lodge managers whose reaction to the jealous glint in your eye is “Well someone has to do it!” The lodge rooms fall into the “quality and not quantity” category. There are only 4 suites and each one is a small piece of paradise complete with private plunge pool, indoor and outdoor showers, deck, outdoor sala, enormous stone bath and stunning views.
Other than some rest and relaxation, the main aim of our trip was some quality time battling the elusive tiger fish. Unfortunately they still remain elusive with our total haul including only 2 cat fish and one small tiger fish caught seemingly by accident. The poor fishing tally could be put down to the mildest cold front (28 degrees celcius) or the skill level of the fisherman. Unfortunately I think it is the latter due to the impressive take by a mom & son combo who were on the water “having a go at fishing”.
Other activities on our trip included a visit to the majestic 2,000 year old Baobab tree as well as the Chobe River Cruise. The Baobab tree can be found on neighbouring Impalila Island and provides those brave enough to climb it with a truly unique and special view of the only place in the world where 4 countries meet; Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Once at the top, your legs may stop shaking long enough for you to release your white knuckle death grip from the climbing holds to take some impressive panoramic photographs.
The Chobe River Cruise can only be described as a perfect way to spend an afternoon. With private boat, guide, cooler box, snacks and miles of pristine river at our disposal, we spent several hours cruising the river banks of the Chobe National Park in search of wildlife. Full checklists worth of game and birdlife – including some of the BIG 5 – frequent the river at this time of day. On this particular afternoon, we were spoilt for elephant, seeing at least 8 separate herds of up to 40 elephant strong coming down to the water to quench their thirsts.
 
These sightings were only trumped by the glorious African sunset over the Zambezi River on the way back to the lodge.
Upon return to the lodge, we were delighted to find freshly run steaming hot bubble baths accompanied by a selection of lotions, potions, bath salts and candles; everything a traveller needs after a hard day of relaxation. During our stay there was a seamless stream of meals and course as if Namibia was unfamiliar with the standard breakfast, lunch and dinner. The quality of food was high and left you with the knowledge that the lodge and staff understand that great dining is interwoven into the very fabric of a superb getaway. We found both staff and management alike to be extremely hospitable and accommodating as they go about creating a true home away from home experience.
Were 3 nights enough? It’s hard to say; I don’t feel that I would be happy to leave this magical place after any amount of time.
By Malcolm Meintjes – Islands Quest Host | September 2009
Following on a very successful 2008, this year’s special flyfishing Tiger Quest packages, starting in mid-May, kicked off on a note of high excitement.
Record Zambezi floods earlier in the year provided excellent flyfishing opportunities for the ‘season’ (June – November) and the Quest groups, taking advantage of my knowledge of the river and unique flyfishing techniques for tigers, have been able to adapt successfully to the changing water conditions.
Happily, a number of double-figure tigerfish (Hydrocynus vittatus) of over 10 lbs. have thus far been recorded on fly with the biggest fish weighing 12 lb. This is somewhat short of the 17-pound monster that was netted in November last year but there are still a couple of good months to go to better that! A good flood season always produces a monster towards the end of the season….
Numerically, good numbers of medium-sized tigers ( 2 – 5 lb.) have provided sport with one Quest group landing over 100 tigerfish landed on fly in effectively 3 ½ days of fishing. In addition, while the ubiquitous catfish (biggest 16 lb. in 2009) does provide an entertaining diversion, what has been pleasing has been the quality of Nembwe (Serranchromis robustus) and Pink bream ( Sargochromis giardi) that have been recorded on the Quests. To date, Nembwe up to 7 lbs. and Pink bream to 5 lbs. have been landed.
While the Zambezi has dropped substantially since its May highs, the Quests that remain through to November are anticipating good fishing with the possibility of a tussle with a specimen tigerfish always in the offing.
By Peter and Anesu Gava – Susuwe Lodge Managers | Winter 2009
At Susuwe we have had a really fantastic winter as far as game experience and sightings are concerned. On every golden morning and diamond afternoon our excellent guides together with our deserving guests have had the opportunity to enjoy the Bwabwata National Park in all aspects, the moderate weather, clear skies, remarkable fresh African bush smells, exceptional landscapes and flora. Above all the bliss has been the consistently out of this world game sightings making Susuwe and the Park one of Africa’s major theatres.
Our guests have been blessed to have an average of 2 sightings of leopard per week, a good sign the population of this species is stable and probably on the increase in the area due to exponentially growing population of antelopes e.g. impala, Greater kudu, red lechwe and water buck. The dry season movement of hundreds of buffalo into the Bwabwata has had an influence with different nomadic lion prides flocking to the area. The local prides which had a wide home range are now frequently seen, a good sign their area of traverse is now subjected to limits because of other prides trying to extend their territories into the Bwabwata. Our lion sightings have improved by more than 50% over winter and they still remain good up to now, with a few females showing signs of denning. Three big male lions who possibly could be brothers/ cousins have been in the area for the past three months and seem to have declared themselves as being in charge of the territory. Among other cats sighted in the area are caracal, African wild cat and cheetah.
The canid population in the area is impressive, with hyena featuring through calls in the night. Due to lion presence, there have been good sightings of hyena in the mornings as they are kept busy while competing for meals. Wild dogs have been sighted a couple of times, whilst in transit, and the tracks have been seen many a time indicating that they are also around.
Huge herds of elephant have been a daily occasion with herds of between 20 and 200 elephant together. These majestic creatures of the wild have so much contribution in shaping the habitat for other species and seeing them live while interacting with the rest of the game and vegetation gives an amazing feeling.
The winter period at Bwabwata had so much to offer above the game sightings. The birdlife, insects, reptiles and the beautiful night skies have given the guest their lifetime memories of Susuwe. The boat cruises have been also beyond excellent, with beautiful sunsets and the sight of the numerous hippopotamus and Crocodiles of the Kwando River.
Photo’s by Byron & Lucia Higgins – June 2009
By Nicci – Lodge Manager | 20 August 2009
The Lions had been spotted the previous day by Beavan who had initially seen the vultures hovering in the sky about 5km’s SW from Horseshoe. He decided to follow the vultures and sure enough – he was rewarded with three lionesses on a buffalo kill – about 60m from the road and with an unobstructed view. When I returned the next day with all our guests… the three lionesses were still there, although there was a young male who had joined the group. He must have been there the whole time but had not been seen the day before. What was amazing to see was that all the lions were in such fantastic condition. They were truly a sight to behold!
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Lioness
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Lion Kill at Susuwe
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Yound Male Lion
By Nicci – Lodge Manager | 12 August 2009
We had just passed Long Lagoon on a drive with our two guests. We were lucky enough to be able to join them as the camp was quiet that day and there were no other guests. Phourie had once told me of a previous leopard spotting in that area and so I had my eyes glued to the bush. Sure enough, luck struck and I spotted a small female leopard walking right next to the road. When she spotted us, she lay down in the short grass giving us a good two minutes to appreciate her beauty. She then got up again and walked over a thicket and out of sight.
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