Located in Zambia and situated in a private Game Management Area adjacent to the Kafue National Park, Kaingu Safari Lodge sits on the banks of the Kafue River, one of the Zambezi’s largest tributaries. This intimate eco-friendly lodge boasts four double Meru-Style luxury tents and a family house, all of which have en-suite bathrooms, outdoor showers and all overlook this pristine river. The lodge, which is accessible by road and air, sits within a big game area and offers game drives, guided eco walks, birding, boat and fishing cruises, canoe trails, rafting and cultural village tours.

This lodge encompasses true wilderness, is extremely remote and offers exclusive activities within the Kafue National Park.

This partnership, effective from November 2011, will see Kaingu joining a set of exclusive lodges that include Ntwala, Impalila and Susuwe Island Lodges, Deception Valley Lodge and Sosa Garden Villa.

To read and see more, visit the Kaingu Safari Lodge section on our website.

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Written by Xamse Xota

“That was my first time out of the Kalahari, Botswana. Ever since my life I spoke to God for that to happen and it was my dream to travel around in my continent, as a African and afterwards my dreams came true and I would like to appreciate God and the guys who were leading me through those hard but nice trips I have done.

Firstly I would like to thank Gert, Nadine and Vicky for the wonderful times I spent with them in South Africa as a Bushman of the Kalahari. It was my first time to travel with a Kulula air craft 737-800 and it was amazing.

On the plane Nadine told the operators that she is with a Bushman guy who has not ever travelled with a plane and this will be his first time to travel with a plane and everyone on that plane were very shocked to hear that. Sitting on a big plane was amazing and as plane was taking off I was a little bit scared, but as it goes above I enjoyed every single moments and everything I spotted was wonderful. As we goes Nadine and Vicky asked me how I feel about the flight, I told them that it is unbelievable and they laugh. Even me too laughs with a scary voice.

The flight took us two and half hours from Jo’burg to Cape Town. As we reached Cape Town I was very very shocked to see things I was not expected to see, Table Mountain, 2010 Soccer Field. But unfortunately I didn’t have time to nice view of these two. When looking at the sea I was getting wild. Thank to God everything looks different and I enjoyed to be there for rest of my life.

Getting inside Radisson Waterfront Hotel, almost everything I spot looks different. Using lifts to the room 119-120 were Nadine, Vicky and I, stayed were wonderful. And as I opened the door of my room 119 I was getting wild. Two big televisions one on sitting room, other one on bedroom. A mini bar. When opening some cuttings oh my God that’s what I said, the ocean was just next to my room and some big ships/boats on the ocean.

After putting my luggage and getting outside to have nice view I meet many guys and all of them enterview me. There were some flashes for several times and all eyes were on me and other guys were enterviewing with English and Afrikaans.

Late evening before dinner Nadine and Vicky takes me to the Hisense Wheel of Excellence and each wheel was 60 metres high and weighs up to 365 tons. They have an capsule seating op to 6 adults and 2 kids each. From each capsule there are 360 degrees panoramic views of the surrounding area. Sitting for dinner was much colder but it was good time to be. Every meal I enjoy there was good, everything was available.

Early morning just around 4:40 I wake up happily. Get my shower and standing outside my varendah at the sunrise was nice with so many colours reflecting on the sea was unbelievable and on other hand Table Mountain was fully covered by some clouds and it was so cold. Then I have cup of tea and went for breakfast and it was wonderful.

Just around 10:00am – 12:00 am has the presentations was ready and I was presenting and showing them my best, wearing my traditional clothes and everyone was so shocked to see how I looks like and some flashes and eyes were on me. Afterwards all people who attendant were happy and I swear I cannot ever forget those wonderful moments.

It was late evening when we flew back from Cape Town to Jo’burg and as I spot Cape Town on flight everything was different and as we goes some plane operators ordered me cool drink and some food for free, but unfortunately I was very tired and I fall asleep a bit on ta plane just for half an hour and it was good. Lastly I will say that it was my dream to travel out of Botswana and I will never never ever forget those days seen myself at Republic of South Africa until I die.

Go to http://www.weg.co.za/multimedia/view/xamse-wil-vuurmaak-onder-toerismebedryf-in-botswana to view Weg’s interview with Xamse.

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The African Fish Eagle – An African Magnificence

African Fish Eagle

The fish eagle is the national symbol of many African countries and finds itself stuck on most of the historical flags. Why this loud bird is so favored is a mystery since the list of other birds of prey is endless. The answers are not definite nor conclusive especially if one has not seen this bird visually. Attempts to answer the question lie in the imagination and narration of one who is mesmerized by the huge eagle through a defined description of its features.

The fish Eagle is a large fish hunter with white feathers stretching from the shoulder to the head up to the nostril at the demarcation where the yellowish strong hooked black tipped bill ends, just slightly below the eye. Below the shoulder comes the  brown/black feathers  running all the way to the tip of the wings. The under parts constituting the belly and the breast are russet, while the upper back reveals the white V-shape which narrows to the centre of the back. The wing is sliced underneath into two colors representing the russet belly to the front and brown/ black  at its back and this can be seen when the bird stretches its wings or in flight. The legs are yellow, with conspicuous scales while the black sharp talons tell the story of what they can do when the eagle is in action. The tail feathers are white, adding the surface area for the white color which is used to reflect heat from the blazing sun during long hours of patiently waiting  for prey to avail the best chances for it to successfully charge and make a kill. It has black Eyes of an efficient skilled killer designed to pull images closer in binocular fashion that has made it a name through spotting slight movements of fish in the water. Combined with accurate judgment of distance the fish eagle rarely missed its target.

Knowing what the bird looks like and its potentialities as a hunter is not enough! Getting a story on what the African Fish Eagle did in one good August afternoon at Susuwe Island Lodge in the Bwabwata National Park will create the great appreciation and respect for the bird. Our guests on this particular game-drive were not really birding, but they loved birds and found pleasure in stopping and watching every little or big beautiful bird. We had seen from the little Grey backed warbler, rattling cisticola, plovers, doves spur fowl, ducks, up to vultures,  stocks and many more from the more than 300 species of birds that can be seen in the area. This gave all the feeling of accomplishment- what a great day! While we were settling in for our sundowners at Little Serengeti, we picked up a little image of white up on the summit of a tree and suddenly fumbled for the binoculars. Some said it was a white egret, others said it was a heron,stork etc. While we were all still wondering what bird it was, the whole image shot out of the tree with great speed and hissed towards the River Kwando waters. In one swift movement the bird dipped its yellow legs with  a loud splash into the water while opening its talons and emerged with a wriggling 900 grams Zambezi bream. What a striking moment for all of us! No one had a doubt that it was indeed the African Fish Eagle. What a beauty! We watched the bird gracefully flap its wings while ferrying its quarry further south until it perched again on another tree and started pecking on it steadily with its sharp bill. This was the moment of the day, and in all of us this was an experience not to forget. Yes we had seen a kill more so from such a majestic bird of prey. It was beauty and the bird and not the beast, adding to the splendors and surprises at Susuwe Island Lodge.

The beginning of the story quickly flowed back into mind and many questions were answered, that such extreme beauty of a bird was more than attractive. Who would not want to see such a wonder bird, and who on this earth would not want to have the Fish Eagle on their Logo or emblem of the country. The Fish Eagle lives by the Kwando River with the spirit of excellence as a predator among others and represents true African magnificence above beauty, both of which it obviously possesses without prejudice.

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It has been proven beyond reasonable doubt that snakes can kill and eat other snakes for so many reasons, some linked to inter/intra-specific competition and others much to do with the predatory instincts based on being opportunistic in their methods of acquiring food. Cannibalism of killing and eating one’s own kind or relation is amazing, more so it has to go against the ethics of fair survival and subsistence and such a sight of species interacting that way can be shocking if not interesting. Observing a fight between two snake individuals trying to bite and introduce venom in each the other is like watching heavy weight wrestlers attempt to catch the other by surprise using speed and accuracy. At the beginning of February, 2010 we had a wonderful observation of an Egyptian Cobra and Puff-Adder fight at the Old Bushman School in the Bwabwata National Park.

There were several thrusts by both snakes which resulted in misses. The Egyptian cobra measuring 2 meters swayed from side to side and ducked away when the Puff Adder made attempts to strike. The shorter, stout but sluggish Puff Adder obviously new that it was facing a much superior and bigger predator cousin than itself and needed to stand firm and fight for its life. After some 5 minutes the Puff Adder finally took a decision to turn around and run, a big mistake which the cobra was waiting for. In a swift movement the cobra struck the puff Adder at the upper part of the tail and although the adder tried to retaliate, it proved too slow. The cobra quickly took advantage of the shocked adder and started swallowing it from the tip of the tail until three quarters of it had disappeared into the cobra. I felt very sorry for the cobra for once upon a time I had watched another cobra killing and prematurely swallowing a puff-adder, being bitten from inside resulting in the mortality of both snakes in less than an hour. This particular cobra seemed to be hearing me from my silent talk and quickly regurgitated the puff adder. He slowly moved to the head of the adder, probably to try and check its consciousness which was a wise thing to do and saved the cobra’s life for a moment. On just getting close to the adder’s head, the cobra had to sway back hastily to avoid two strikes from the adder. This was astonishing, for after 30 minutes one would have thought the adder had passed the stage of paralysis and maybe in rigor mortis. Another car came by and its vibrations forced the cobra to flee into the bushes, leaving the puff adder just as still as ice. There was now a worry that maybe the cobra would not turn back to finish off the mission and the poor puff adder’s fate would not have saved any purpose as far as nature is supposed to take its own course is concerned.

The other car went by, to avoid running over the puff adder who just by looking at it one would presume almost dead. Dead silence now prevailed with the other vehicle gone and observation of these ophidians continued. It was shocking to see the Puff Adder start moving, rolling itself onto the track road, stopping for a moment and wriggling slowly as if finally dying. As it continued to push as if in labor, a huge clump of black droppings came out with a splash of uric acid. This was probably a method of its body system trying to get rid of the cobra’s venom. After this the cobra then moved on slowly on the sand, tried to move out of the track a few times but lost balance as it was tired and in big pain. Suddenly the Egyptian Cobra reappeared from the bushes, searched everywhere for its prey, getting lost almost frequently and finally picking up the scent from the last spot it had left the puff adder. The cobra smoothly pushed itself over the sand and followed the puff adder that he finally could not find. When the cobra was about 2 meters from catching the adder, the adder got to some hot sand which forced it to put effort to exit the road into the nearest bushes. Just before the cobra realized that its prey had faced another difficulty, it also found itself in the same catastrophe! The cobra wriggled around and quickly thrust itself out of the road and disappeared into the bushes. After some 10 minutes, the cobra came back to the road but far ahead of where the Puff Adder was hiding obviously having lost the scent to keep on following its prey. The cobra then went to the different side of the road and probably still intending to carry on searching for the puff adder. This was an hour and a half of observation and it had to stop at that moment. When the vehicle passed by, the puff adder lay still and breathed heavily, a sign that it was struggling. If the cobra finally found puff adder then its own life would have been saved. It would then consume the adder at a time when it could be dead or so week not to respond.

When this happens always one gets that satisfaction of seeing nature do the best it can to shape or deface itself without man’s interference for its own benefit. The Bwabwata National Park is one wildlife sanctuary where a visitor can still expect to see such interactions unfold because of its being entirely natural.

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Good cat sightings recently – this one was taken by 2 German ladies (Gerda Pfeil and Andrea Lippert) on a game drive – first week of January.

Recent cat sightings

Our alpha male photographed by Dayne in December

A new Pearl Spotted Owl fledgling by Dayne

Action at the Hobatere waterhole in December photographed by Dayne

Our resident rock monitor - Dayne

Juvenile Boomslang photographed by Dayne in the Hobatere garden

Damara Hornbill in our garden - another near endemics in Namibia - photographed by Dayne

One of the near endemics in Namibia - Madagascar Bee-eater, photographed by Dayne

Steve releasing an Augar Buzzard that he ringed near the lodgeSteve releasing an Augar Buzzard that he ringed near the lodge

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A jungle without a King is like an abandoned Palace and the throne is just devoid. This is a stead-fast belief in any community that deserves dignity, stability and continuity. The Bwabwata National Park was not an exception a few years back when human pressure had caused many wildlife species to disappear. Truly, the King of the Jungle ‘The African lion’ is among the species that were forced to the margin without doubt. For 10 years the Bwabwata National Park lions have not been very visual except for some calls and a few tracks to mark their presence. This has changed overwhelmingly resulting in frequent sightings of different individuals and prides that have now become a common sight at Susuwe Island Lodge and the famous Horseshoe Bend. The King of the Jungle has finally come to claim back his Throne in full force, all confirmed by the observations that follow.

Kathy Rabkin our recent guest had a feast of lion sightings. Soon after picking her up from Kongola Check Point, we drove into the Park without any inclination on what surprise waited for us ahead. Of course this was Kathy’s first time in Bwabwata and a very rustic Conservation area compared to others she has visited before, and this she loved and confessed repeatedly.

The storm had just passed by and the wet sand made our tracks on the road like a high-way. Soon as we arrive at Old Fort Doppies we picked up fresh tracks of what we all agreed was 4 male lions and the fact that the storm had only passed some 15 minutes back, experience plus instinct told us that the animals were just around. We drove further up the embankment and as we reached up the peak, suddenly two lions walked away into the bushes. The other two had obviously walked ahead of the two we could see. We gave the lions time to settle down so that we could verify the numbers and gender. Four individuals came back to the road in turns but went back into the bushes when we started the vehicle. Suddenly all the lions started calling as a result selling out the presence of the fifth individual who was still behind us. We had to drive back to look for him but he hid and then came onto the road behind us. On our way back there he was, running towards the rest in a gentle trot. Alas! This proved to be the biggest of all the males, with his glistening mane shinning as if oiled from the saloon. He stood and looked back, walked, stopped and looked again before disappearing into the bushes. We stayed with the lions for the next 45 minutes as they walked on the road towards Susuwe Island Lodge. The sun was going down and soon it would be dark, meaning we had to leave and leave our dear friends until the next day. I was happy for Kathy since this was her first lions seen so close in the wild.

Kathy was warmly welcomed at the Lodge whilst she still could not believe how quickly the whole drama unveiled. The lions roared over the whole night while baboons and monkeys responded with highly pitched calls of fear for their lives.

During the following day we had to go on an Afternoon Game Drive. We switched our game-drive to birding, termites and bones of animals although we did not take off the thought about our magnificent male lions. We picked up tracks of a female lion and a cub at Nambwa and I told Kathy that the two will be at Horse-shoe. Yes but not quite right! Just on arrival at Horse-shoe we sighted a sub-adult male and sub-adult female who were ambushing impala but abandoned the mission and ran to the nearest bushes. Kathy had all the luck for the Susuwe Predators and made sure it also crossed a female cheetah who lazily relaxed at a termite mound under a sweet thorn acacia tree.

We came back to horse-shoe for a lovely sunset with the hippos, baboons, kudu, impala and Hadida Ibis. What a wonderful sunset!

On our way back to the lodge we took the back road from Horse-shoe in an attempt to look for leopard but unfortunately we got back to the main drive road without any signs of the elusive cat. As we enter the main drive road, we again picked up fresh tracks of 4 male lions that were heading towards to Horse-shoe having walked on top of our previous tracks. Even though it was getting dark, we were enticed to turn around and follow them. Just 3 minutes after that they were on the road. They stared at the vehicle and then just slowly walked into the bushes. We drove closer and had a full view of all the four. We realized the lions were marking and probably trying to catch up with the pride of females. This is a good indication that our Bwabwata National Park lions at Susuwe Island lodge now have a strengthened gene pool and have discovered this space for ever, ensuring high probability of our guests having a great experience and viewing of them. This will give a complete consortium of Africa’s Big Cats being sighted at Susuwe since leopard and cheetah now feature very well in the area.

We bid Kathy Farewell and she obviously would have wanted to stay longer to share even more of the Susuwe magic. We had to drop her to Kongola Check-Point and drove back with the memories of her and the company she gave us over the past three days, and the lions.

Long live the King of the Jungle of the Bwabwata National Park at Susuwe wild Kingdom!

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We were not surprised with the raised eyebrows and sceptical stares upon announcing our intention to head off to work in the Namibian bush. For Dave and I it was a new beginning – not only as newly weds but also in our respective careers and lifestyles. This was our chance to challenge ourselves in a new direction. We had spent all our lives living in the city and had developed a passion for the bush through numerous excursions to various game farms in South Africa. When the opportunity arose for us, it was at the perfect time. Dave had just finished his Articles and I was ready for a new and challenging job away from the ‘big smoke’ and the Joburg traffic.

We arrived at Impalila on the 27^th April 2009 filled with expectation. We both had limited to no experience and were immediately challenged upon arrival. We had only a few days of training prior to being left as an autonomous unit in complete control of the lodge whilst its management couple, Heidi and Francois, took their leave. The responsibility was given to and received by both of us with anticipation.

Although we performed well over those weeks… we were met by other challenges coming in all forms and sizes… I think it pertinent therefore to mention that when we first arrived in the Caprivi, although a bush lover, I was still a Sandton girl at heart. Spiders and snakes were mortal enemies. Every night Dave would escort me home as I suspiciously shone my head torch into the bushes to ensure I did not stumble into any hidden hippos, elusive elephants or slithery snakes. Every rustle in the bush would push my heart rate into overdrive. I would stop dead, hold my breath and strain my ears intensely in order to locate the source of the noise.

Initially, I was also extremely concerned about the large gap under the front door to the house we had been given. In my mind the gap was an irresistible invitation to a passing Mamba going about its winter 2009 hibernation routine. Spiders were also rife. I could spot at least 8 visible arachnids in our house at any given time. When spider-hugging Dave wasn’t around I would run around the room with my shoe chasing the little buggers. And these were true, 8 legged, little Olympiads. I can’t say I actually managed to catch one of them – they would always mange to dash into an inaccessible gap or corner leaving me staring at the wall exasperated.

Those few weeks at Impalila flew by quickly and our next challenge was to head off to Ntwala Island Lodge – just a stone throws distance from Impalila. Where Impalila is the luxurious fishing lodge, Ntwala is the lodge every person dreams of being able to stay at one day. Ntwala is luxury at its best. And of course – with the luxury comes high guest expectation and an unquestionable delivery of outstanding service. After a month at Ntwala, Dave and I were handed over control of the lodge. Ntwala’s previous manager had been promoted and we were now to be the managers of this extraordinarily beautiful haven.

Dave and I stayed a blissful four months at Ntwala. The lodge has a unique character made up by the staff spirit and the intense beauty of the location. The buildings are set in and amongst dense forests comprising of predominantly tropical vegetation. As guests arrive at the lodge, most have made the similar comment: “that if you didn’t know better, you could be on a tropical, ocean island” – this is purely due to the flowing rapids, the white, beach sand pathways, the lush palm trees and the sense of complete seclusion.

I am happy to tell you that as time progressed, my snake and bug paranoia dramatically decreased. I am now quite happy to have an arachnid ally, hanging over my head at night, feasting on mosquitoes. I no longer have a nervous break down when walking home at night. I revel in the sound of the bush at night… the frogs, the crickets and the river in the background. Upon returning to Johannesburg for our first leave period, Dave turned and said to me… “Don’t you miss the sounds of the bush at night”? Well yes – I had to agree.

As we enter 2010, our path has somewhat transformed. We have returned to Johannesburg permanently due to unforeseen problems with our work visas. However, reminiscing over the last few months in Namibia, I can’t help but appreciate the unimaginable challenges and learning curves we were faced with. I would not sacrifice the experience we had for anything in the world. The lodge now remains in the capable hands of another couple who have a matched enthusiasm for their roles. We wish them all the best of luck…

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Hobatere Lodge is renowned for its fantastic big game sightings and this month has been no exception. Lions attacked and killed a zebra right in front of the main hide, stunning guests with a display of nature’s cruel magnificence, and providing some amazing photo opportunities. The elephant breeding herds are another constant source of wonder and the elephants are happy to oblige the guests by having mud baths in a pool right below the Hobatere swimming pool! For big cat lovers, the night drives have yielded some exciting sightings of lions and cheetahs and for the twitchers, a bird watching walk with Steve is definitely not to be missed, with a likely addition of seven or eight endemic Namibian specials to be added to your list.

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The game viewing at Impalila Island Lodge has been superlative lately. Guests are regularly being treated to the delightful sight of elephants crossing the river right in front of the lodge and it truly is a wonderful experience to watch them take advantage of the cool water to frolic and play a little bit as well. Guests who have ventured out onto the Chobe River on a River Game Cruise have also been rewarded with the sight of lions on the banks of the Chobe River, as well as a host of other sightings including elephants, crocodiles, hippos and lechwe. Another unforgettable river experience is a romantic beach picnic – A picnic lunch on a sandbank in the upper Zambezi, which gives the sense of being marooned on your own private desert island… Impalila guests were recently overheard declaring that it was the highlight of their stay.

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